By rethinking how thin metal threads are woven into a
f
lexible textile, EPFL researchers in Switzerland have
created a lightweight fabric capable of lifting over 400
times its own weight. The work advances the develop
ment of wearables that provide physical assistance
without mechanical bulk. Most wearable robotic systems
today rely on rigid components with limited comfort
and social acceptance. Robotic elements that apply
forces when activated can provide dis
creet mechanical assistance to human
muscles, but it is extremely challenging
for these actuators to achieve sufficient
force and range of motion while remain
ing flexible enough to be integrated into
garments.Researchers at the Soft Trans
ducers Lab (LMTS) in EPFL’s School of
Engineering have developed textile ac
tuators using shape memory alloy (SMA)
fibres interlaced in a periodic X-crossing
pattern. When contracted by 50%, a 4.5-gram piece of
fabric that integrates SMA fibres in the X-crossing pattern
can lift 1 kilogram. This work, led by Huapeng Zhang and
LMTS head Herbert Shea, has been published in Science
Advances.
Strength and flexibility
The team’s working principle is based on how the thin
SMA fibres, made from a nickel-titanium alloy, shorten
and stiffen when heated via an electrical current. While
SMA fibres are powerful, their effectiveness in textiles has
historically been limited by how they are interlaced. In
standard knits or knots, the fibres loop around each other
in different directions. When they contract, their forces
often pull against one another, partially cancelling each
other out.
To overcome this limitation, the EPFL team developed the X-crossing architecture. In this design, every fibre
crossing is aligned precisely in the direction of the desired
movement. Instead of the fibres fighting each other, they
cooperate seamlessly. In addition to maximizsing
generated force, this alignment allows the resulting
fabric to be stretched to 160% of its original length,
making garments flexible and easy to put on.
“We realised that the orientation of fibre crossings plays a
critical role in how forces add up inside a textile
actuator,” explains PhD student Huapeng Zhang. “By
aligning the crossings, we ensure that the forces
generated at each intersection contribute
constructively, rather than working against each other,
resulting in a textile actuator that significantly outperform
previous knitted or knotted designs.”
To demonstrate the potential for practical applications
of their X-crossing actuators, the team integrated them
into two functional wearable prototypes. First, by
mounting the textile on a mannequin’s
arm, they demonstrated a wearable
sleeve for elbow bending assistance. The actuator lifted a 1 kg bag held in
the mannequin’s hand through a
30-degree range of motion in a smooth,
controlled manner. In a second
demonstration, the actuators were
successfully used for on-body
compression, which is needed for
medical sleeves or athletic gear.
Beyond the new architecture itself, the researchers have
also developed a mechanics model that captures how
SMA fibres change stiffness with temperature and stress.
Unlike previous simplified approaches, the model
accounts for spatial stiffness variations within each fibre
as it undergoes phase transitions, allowing scientists to
predict how much force and contraction an actuator
will produce under different loads, temperatures and
geometric designs. Shea emphasises that a key
advantage of the X-crossing design is its efficiency,
which allows it to maintain compression pressure at zero
energy cost. “While textiles traditionally serve solely as
passive apparel, the transition to fabrics that function as
powerful actuators will enable a new class of
comfortable, unobtrusive, practical wearable robotics
that provide support for daily activities to be designed,”
he says. CreateMe Technologies, the California company pio neering automated apparel manufacturing through advanced bonding and robotics, has announced a strate gic partnership with Untuckit, the New York-based apparel brand known for rethinking the traditional button-down shirt.Through this collaboration, CreateMe will introduce its first commercially available digitally bonded men’s t-shirt with a brand partner, produced in the USA using its Pixel bonding and MeRA automated assembly system.The t-shirts will be made with Supima premium US cotton, known for its extra-long staple which results in a softer, stronger and more colour-retentive fabric than regular cotton.The commercial partnership with Untuckit marks a milestone in demonstrat ing the maturity and commercial readiness of digitally bonded clothing and a robotics-based manufacturing pro cess at scale by meeting the high standards required by a leading retail apparel brand.Pixel, CreateMe’s digital adhe sive application system, enables unmatched precision, re sponsiveness and flexibility in garment construction, serving as the foundation for a new era of adaptive, on-demand manufacturing.“Partnering with Untuckit accelerates the shift towards a more modern way of making clothes,” says Cam Myers, founder and CEO of CreateMe. “Untuckit built its brand by challenging convention and this collaboration brings that same mindset into manufacturing. It proves that high-quality apparel can be produced competitively in the USA at scale while giving consumers a better, more durable product. This is the first of many bonded garments we’ll bring to market.”The two companies aim to commercially scale production to up to 50,000 bonded t-shirts per year from Q3 2026.“At Untuckit, we’re always exploring innova tions that enhance product performance and the cus tomer experience,” says Bjorn Bengtsson, the brand’s chief product and supply chain officer. “CreateMe’s adhesive bonding technology opens exciting new opportunities to rethink how we approach apparel construction in a more efficient and responsible way.”As brands navigate rising production costs and supply chain pressures, automated domestic manufacturing is creating new opportunities for stability and speed. CreateMe’s bonding and robotic as sembly technology reduces reliance on overseas produc tion, helps stabilise margins and brings manufacturing closer to demand. The partnership underscores how US-based automated production can match or exceed the consis tency and efficiency of offshore operations.Building on the momentum of this collaboration, CreateMe will expand bonded apparel production from men’s tees into women’s styles and additional t-shirt variations as part of its broader 2026 roadmap